Queen Street West between University and Spadina avenues was an ultra-hip enclave of art galleries, specialty book stores and indie-designer clothing shops during the ’70s and ’80s, but the area has become more mainstream in recent years.
Many independent retailers have been replaced by chain stores like Gap, American Eagle and Zara’s. Despite these changes, this Queen Street strip is still home to many of the iconic bars and restaurants that have been drawing people to the area for decades.
One of the oldest of these culinary institutions is the venerable Peter Pan Bistro at 373 Queen St. W. The restaurant, at the south-east corner of Peter and Queen streets has been a neighbourhood landmark for almost
40 years.
Last year, the ownership changed and chef/owner Noah Goldberg, 32, took over. He reopened the newly renovated eatery in the spring, restoring it to its former art deco glory.
Back in 1927, the place was known as Peter Pan Lunch, but the stained glass and pressed tin ceiling date back to the Victorian era.
In fact, Goldberg points out that there has been a restaurant in this building since the 1890s.
Enter Peter Pan and one feels the convergence of old and new. The polished wood of the original art deco banquettes gleams as does the long white marble bar. Despite its Victorian roots and art deco fixtures the restaurant has a modern feel.
On this sunny Friday afternoon, the mood in the kitchen is upbeat as the chefs and sous-chefs prepare for dinner. They strain an emerald-coloured pea soup through a fine mesh, white and green asparagus are trimmed and ready for grilling, and miniature challahs are rising on large baking pans on the counter.
Yes, Goldberg serves challah on Friday night. “We have a bread program. Every bread is made in-house every day,” he explains. “I have a baker who’s here with us. We have four different sourdoughs and we do challah on Fridays. We use the left-over challah for French toast for weekend brunches.”
He says the menu changes weekly. “It’s driven by what’s fresh on the market and seasonal.”
He even serves fiddleheads and nettles when they’re in season.
A popular item, salmon roulade, is teamed with hand-made latkes, but salmon panzanella, poached salmon served in a vinaigrette with tomatoes and watercress, is also on the menu.
There are also a variety of salads – arugula with mushrooms and goat cheese, or grilled asparagus with enoki mushrooms and Parmesan.
Goldberg’s career path has not followed a traditional trajectory. He was an economics major at Queen’s University, when he discovered cooking, he says. “It was a life skill I fell in love with.
“I was making my own pasta, entertaining friends. Sharing a meal together reminded me of Friday night dinners with the family.”
Rather than attend a traditional chef school, Goldberg trained with some of the world’s leading chefs. “The cool thing about becoming a chef is apprenticing. You’re freelance. It’s very hands-on.”
His first job was in Toronto. “I worked under Susur Lee, the pre-eminent chef. He brought fusion to the table.”
Goldberg spent two years in New York City, in the kitchen of international restaurateur, Daniel Boulud, “one of the big French chefs,” before heading to London, England, for a stint at St. John restaurant.
Back in Toronto he learned butchering skills at St Lawrence Market, and for six months, he ran the Feasting Room, a pop-up project.
Goldberg’s advice to aspiring young chefs is to choose apprenticeships wisely. “Work at the best kitchen you can find. It’s better to start at a lower position somewhere great than at a higher position at a lesser place.”
And making the time commitment is critical, he adds. “Be prepared to put in the hours – 16-hour days five to six days a week.”
Peter Pan miniature challahs
o 2 tsp. sugar
o 1/2 cup warm water
o 7 g instant dry yeast
o 1/2 cup oil
o 1/2 cup warm water
o 1/4 cup sugar
o 4 tsp. salt
o 2 eggs
o 4 cups flour
o sesame seeds
o 1 egg beaten with 1 tsp. water
Combine 1 tsp. sugar and 1/2 cup warm water. Let sugar dissolve in water. Add yeast to sugar and water, dissolve and let foam, roughly 10 minutes.
In a separate bowl mix eggs, 1/2 cup warm water and oil. Add to yeast mixture. Combine with sugar, salt, flour. Add half the flour and mix until fully combined. It should be the consistency of batter.
Slowly combine the rest of the flour until the dough becomes soft and tacky. Proof until dough doubles in size (roughly 1 hour). Punch down dough. Let the dough rise again until it doubles (roughly half an hour). For individual challahs, divide dough in 1-oz. portions. Take three 1-oz ounce portions, roll into long logs and braid the challah. Let proof with a damp towel on top until dough doubles in size, (roughly 20 minutes).
Brush the top of the challah with egg wash, and sprinkle on salt and sesame seeds. Bake at 400 for 13 minutes.