The Shabbat Table is the latest CJN column from noted chef and food blogger Norene Gilletz. Click here for last week’s recipes.
Good Shabbos, Shabbat Shalom! I’m not a big wine drinker but am always interested in learning more about which wines to serve with which foods. Today’s selection includes something for chicken lovers, something for beef lovers, and even something for the vegetarians at your Shabbat table.
The Covenant Kitchen: Food and Wine for the New Jewish Table (Schocken Books and OU Press) is an excellent resource for food lovers, with over 100 mouthwatering recipes, complete with detailed suggested wine pairings. It comes from Jeff and Jodie Morgan, co-owners of the acclaimed Covenant Winery in California and authors of seven previous cookbooks. The Covenant Kitchen respects Jewish customs and gives traditional food creative culinary makeovers. You’ll learn how to select the right wine for any occasion, the requirements for kosher food preparation, plus tips for serving and storing wine as well as pairing wine with food.
With sample recipes for Jewish holidays, enticing photographs, and the fascinating story of wine in ancient Israel and throughout Jewish history, The Covenant Kitchen puts a fresh spin on one of the world’s oldest culinary traditions. Learn more here.
The authors explain: “For Jews, wine has long been linked to religious practice. Sabbath meals and Jewish holiday meals begin with the recitation of kiddush – an expanded blessing over wine that, according to many rabbinic opinions, extends back to biblical times and is mentioned in the Mishnah and in later rabbinic writings as well. (Kiddush is a derivative of the word kadosh, which means sacred.)”
They continue: “Jews are renowned for producing some famously bad wine…. Perhaps that is part of the reason many North American Jews don’t drink wine regularly with meals. In America, the wine renaissance we are currently witnessing began only about 25 years ago. We are now making up for lost time.”
Here are three scrumptious meals from The Covenant Kitchen Cookbook along with some great advice on cooking with wine. Enjoy!
Cooking with Wine
We often cook with wine, which has a natural acidity to tenderize meats and brighten a sauce or soup. However, the primary flavours we love in bottled wine are destroyed through cooking. This is why we don’t recommend using a great or expensive wine, especially if you need more than a “glug.” Remember to cook with dry wine, too. (Sweet wine will sweeten whatever you are cooking.) When a recipe calls for cooking wine, use a dry (not sweet) inexpensive table wine. It won’t hurt the sauce; and it won’t hurt your pocketbook. Save the good wine for your glass!
APPLE-STUFFED ROSEMARY ROAST CHICKEN WITH NEW POTATOES (Meat)
This is surely one of the easiest recipes to prepare among the main courses in the book. But that doesn’t mean it holds back on flavour. The apple that bakes inside the chicken gives the bird a slightly fruity quality. (Don’t forget to eat the baked apple with the chicken.) And the heady scent of roasting rosemary, garlic, and olive oil is an aromatic treat that permeates the kitchen.
Sometimes we like to make a wine gravy to go with the baked chicken. It requires a little more than two cups of wine and an additional 5 minutes of stove time. At other times, however, we simply spoon drippings from the roasting pan over the carved meat. Either way, this simple, soulful dish is always a hit in our home.
From a wine perspective, chicken is perhaps the most versatile of meats. It tastes great with red, white, or pink wines. Among reds, robust Cabernet or Syrah would make a marvelous match here. But so would lighter-styled Pinot Noir or spicy Zinfandel. If you prefer white wine, try a fruity white Riesling or Gewürztraminer. A rich, barrel-fermented Chardonnay would be nice too.
1 whole chicken (4 to 5 pounds)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons dried rosemary
1 medium apple
6 to 8 new potatoes (about 2 pounds) cut into quarters
1 sweet potato, cut into 2-inch cubes
8 cloves garlic (unpeeled)
2 cups red or white wine (optional)
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Sprinkle the chicken, inside and out, with salt and pepper to taste. Using your hands, rub the skin with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Then gently rub with 2 tablespoons of the rosemary until the skin is evenly covered. Stuff the cavity with the apple. Set the chicken on a roasting rack in a baking pan, but do not place it in the oven yet.
In a large bowl, toss the potatoes, sweet potato, and garlic with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon rosemary. (Use your hands for easiest mixing.) Season with additional salt and pepper and toss again.
Place the potatoes in the baking pan around the roasting rack and under the chicken. Place the garlic cloves on top of the potatoes (or they will burn and stick to the pan). Roast the chicken for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 400°F. Continue to roast until the chicken skin is crisp, and the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced, about 1 hour 45 minutes. (The potatoes should be firm but tender. The garlic should be soft, although some cloves may be a little crunchy.)
Transfer the chicken to a carving board and let it rest for 10 minutes before carving. Remove the apple from the bird and carve it into wedges or slices. Transfer the potatoes and garlic cloves to a large bowl and set aside.
If you are making a wine gravy, remove the roasting rack from the pan and pour out half the fatty drippings that have collected in the pan. Set the pan over high heat and add the wine. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits that may be sticking to the pan. Let the wine reduce by half and pour it into a gravy bowl.
Serve the chicken with the potatoes and garlic on the side and a slice or two of apple. Drizzle with wine gravy or pan drippings.
Serves 4
GINGER SESAME NOODLES (Pareve)
In our much younger days, we lived on New York’s Lower East Side, where a local caterer made the most delicious sesame noodles. We couldn’t get enough of these spicy, crunchy noodles and would regularly ask for the recipe. But we were always refused. Eventually we figured out how to make the noodles ourselves, and we have enjoyed them at home ever since.
Sesame chili oil and toasted sesame oil are generally available among the Asian condiments or vegetable oils at your supermarket. And don’t shy away from toasting your own sesame seeds – it’s really easy. You don’t absolutely have to use the seeds but it’s a worthwhile addition – they are what give these noodles their delightful crunch. Toast them first, before you begin the rest of the dish.
This dish goes especially well with a glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc or dry rosé.
1 pound dried noodles, such as linguine or fettuccine
3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon sesame chili oil
6 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
1 clove garlic, crushed through a press or minced
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
12 to 14 ounces firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice
4 green onions, white and green parts, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch rounds
3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds (optional) (see below)
Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large serving bowl, stir together the sesame oil, chili oil, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, and allspice. Add the tofu and toss to coat with the sauce.
When the pasta is done, drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water to bring to room temperature. Shake the noodles dry and add them to the tofu and sesame sauce, tossing until evenly coated.
Add the bell pepper and green onion and toss again. Add the sesame seeds (if using) and toss once more. Serve at room temperature in shallow bowls or on large plates
Serves 4 to 6
Toasting Seeds or Nuts
Place them in a dry skillet over medium heat. Stir fairly constantly until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Larger nuts, such as hazelnuts or almonds, may require additional time, 8 to 10 minutes. If the seeds or nuts begin to smoke, remove them from the heat. Transfer immediately to a plate to cool.
KOREAN-STYLE FLANKEN WITH ASIAN SLAW AND RED POTATO SALAD (Meat)
Flanken are strips of beef cut lengthwise across the short rib bones. Korean-style flanken is sliced thinner than the Jewish version, then marinated and grilled. The Korean cut can be found in most supermarkets, but you may have to look for Korean-style “short ribs,” not flanken. Or, just ask your kosher butcher to slice his flanken into 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick slices.
Because it is sliced so thin, Korean-style flanken is very tender and cooks quickly. These juicy ribs have a nutty, smoky edge and an almost fruity quality that teams up well with the tangy Asian slaw and spiced potato salad—perfect for summertime dining outdoors. This dish is also ideal for parties, because you can prepare everything well in advance and then be free to socialize with guests. The grilling takes literally only minutes, but you’ll need to prepare the meat in the morning or early afternoon to let it marinate.
In your glass, pour any fruity red wine such as Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache, or Pinot Noir. Chilled rosé would also make an excellent accompaniment.
FLANKEN
2 tablespoons brown sugar
12 Korean-style beef ribs (about 2 1/2 pounds)
1/4 cup soy sauce or tamari
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/4 cup toasted sesame oil
3 tablespoons sesame chili oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
4 green onions (white parts only) cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
ASIAN COLESLAW
2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/4 cup toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon sesame chili oil
Juice of 1 lime
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 head green cabbage, halved and sliced into thin ribbons
2 carrots, grated
6 green onions (white and light-green parts only) cut into thin rounds
1/2 cup minced fresh cilantro
RED POTATO SALAD
2 pounds small red potatoes, halved
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red or white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1⁄8 teaspoon chipotle pepper flakes (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup diced red bell pepper
6 green onions (white parts only) cut into thin rounds
PREPARE THE FLANKEN: Sprinkle the brown sugar on both sides of the beef strips and set aside. In a glass or nonreactive bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, vinegar, both sesame oils, garlic, ginger, and green onions. Place the meat in a large zip-seal plastic bag. Pour the marinade over the meat and gently squeeze the bag to expel any excess air. Seal the bag and turn it over several times to cover all the meat with the marinade. Place the bag on a plate (in case it leaks) and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours, flipping the bag every 2 hours or so.
While the meat is still marinating, MAKE THE COLESLAW: In a small glass bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, vinegar, both sesame oils, lime juice, garlic, and ginger. Place the sliced cabbage, carrots, and green onions in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture and toss gently. Add the cilantro and toss again. (The slaw can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator for several hours. For best results, remove it from the fridge 1 hour prior to eating and allow it to return to room temperature.)
MAKE THE POTATO SALAD: In a large pot, bring 3 to 4 inches of water to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes, reduce the heat to a gentle boil, and simmer until the potatoes are tender enough to be poked easily with a fork, about 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander and rinse with cold water. Let the potatoes dry thoroughly in the colander.
While the potatoes are cooking, prepare their dressing. In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, and garlic. Add the thyme, chipotle pepper flakes (if using), and 1/8 teaspoon salt and whisk again.
Add the potatoes and bell peppers to the bowl and toss gently to coat evenly. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Sprinkle the green onions on top as garnish. Set aside or refrigerate until ready to serve. (As with the slaw, the potato salad is best at room temperature.)
Preheat the grill. Remove the meat from the marinade and place directly onto the grill grates. Cook about 2 minutes per side for medium-rare. Serve hot off the grill with the slaw and potato salad on the side.
Serves 6
Norene Gilletz is the leading author of kosher cookbooks in Canada. She is the author of eleven cookbooks and divides her time between work as a food writer, food manufacturer, consultant, spokesperson, cooking instructor, lecturer, and cookbook editor.
Norene lives in Toronto, Canada and her motto is “Food that’s good for you should taste good!” For more information, visit her website or email her at [email protected].