Eucalyptus is back. Famed chef Moshe Basson has finally reopened this longtime Jerusalem institution, much to the delight of locals and tourists alike. The return of his restaurant, where he serves biblical cuisine, is very welcome in this ancient city.

But while the restaurant may have been closed for a few years, Basson was still delighting food lovers all over the world. He has been a sought-after guest chef for fundraising cooking demonstrations in Jewish communities across the United States. He’s cooked at Israeli embassies for events in all corners of the world, from South America to Asia. He recently prepared meals at the Balsamico festival in Modena, Italy, as part of his Chefs for Peace program. There, together with fellow Palestinian chef Odeah Abu Elhawa, he cooked his biblical cuisine for a festive dinner in the spectacular Ducal Palace. He has won a Slow Food Couscous competition in Sicily, beating out rivals from a host of Middle Eastern countries. And his son, Ronny, who seems to be following in his father’s footsteps, recently triumphed together with another Israeli chef at the latest world couscous championship 2007 in San Vito Lo Capo in Sicily.

The original Eucalyptus, opened in 1988, was built at the site where a Eucalyptus tree was planted by Basson one Tu b’Shvat in the Talpiot neighbourhood of Jerusalem. He then moved the eatery to a more central location on Horkanos Street in the Russian Compound. It was after a move to Safra Square – the location of the new City Hall – that the second intifadah began and, like so many other businesses, Eucalyptus had to close its doors. But now it’s back on Horkanos Street. This is where I first met the man with an endless knowledge of Israel’s natural bounty and its history – both  recent and ancient.

For Basson, herbs and spices are not something to purchase, but instead, something to gather or forage. The country is like his personal garden. Mention a place in Israel and a local may tell you of a scenic or historic attraction. Basson will tell you what is indigenous to the area.  He knows what grows wild and when it is available. At the same time, he knows the history of each plant and how it was used in the cuisine of thousands of years ago. While archeologists may have details about various sites around the country or historians about battles, Basson knows what was used in meals from biblical times and how things were prepared. But he also tells of the khubeiza, the wild green that sustained Jews during the siege of Jerusalem in 1948. And as fascinating as his explanations of his various preparations are, the stories are definitely matched by the mouth-watering tastes.

At a recent dinner at Eucalyptus, we feasted on Basson’s specialties. His tasting menu, Shir Hashirim – or Song of Songs – began with a trio of soups. The tomato mint, Jerusalem artichoke and biblical lentil have all been on the menu as Eucalyptus staples. Picking a favourite was next to impossible.

Then came a delicious variety of mezze. Pickled green almonds, currently a hot ingredient for California chefs, marinated black olives, hummus and eggplant salad tasted like no other we had sampled before. It was tempting to finish it all off, but then we saw that we needed to pace ourselves. A plate that looked like mashed potatoes was anything but ordinary. Seven herbs including thyme, hyssop, mint, parsley and a sage-scented olive oil, made  for a dish to savour.

Purslane, a wild green and wild spinach followed. A smoky eggplant dish with techinah made us want to lick the plate. The offerings continued with a green smoked wheat salad – along with its history – stuffed grape and sage leaves, tamarind-sauced figs stuffed with chicken and then a pie filled with lamb and vegetables. The ma’aluba, a chicken and rice casserole flavoured with spices like cinnamon and allspice, comes out of the kitchen with great fanfare. By then, it wasn’t just the vegetables and fruit that were stuffed. But we couldn’t resist another of Basson’s signature dishes – his Middle Eastern version of peanut butter and jam – date syrup and techinah with fresh figs.

There’s no doubt that Basson’s cuisine is as unique as it is mouth watering. At the same time, he continues to delve into the origins of what he serves. His latest quest is to research whether couscous really originated at the time of the first Temple to be used in sacrificial rites, rather than from the Arabic world – definitely food for thought.

If you can’t visit Eucalyptus in person, here are a few samplings you can try at home.

1 lb. Jerusalem artichokes, peeled
1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
pinch saffron
6 cups homemade or sodium-reduced chicken or vegetable broth
12 blanched almonds
3 tbsp. water
3 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
salt and freshly ground pepper

Prepare Jerusalem artichokes by cutting larger ones into quarters and smaller ones into halves. Set aside. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat; add onion and garlic and sauté until soft, about 10 minutes. Add Jerusalem artichokes and sauté another 4-5 minutes. Add saffron and broth and bring to a boil. Simmer covered for about 25-30 minutes. In the meantime, grind almonds finely in a spice grinder or food processor. Mix together with water in a small bowl. Add to soup with parsley. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and serve hot. Makes 6 servings.

This dessert from Moshe Basson is as simple and tasty as you can get. Fresh fruit slices – bananas are super – or warm pita bread can be used for dipping.  Vary the quantities according to the size of your plate and the number of people you are serving. This amount is perfect for a 6-inch plate. Date syrup is available at Middle Eastern or specialty food stores.

4 tbsp. techinah
2 tbsp. date syrup

Spread the techinah evenly over a plate. Drizzle the date syrup into a circle about an inch from the edge of the plate. Repeat twice more making smaller circles inside each other moving closer towards the centre. To complete the decorative effect, using a toothpick, make lines as if dividing the spread into quarters and then divide each quarter into halves. When you do this, the date mixture will blend slightly with the techinah. Makes 4 servings

Rosie Schwartz is a Toronto-based freelance writer who will be leading a food and wine tour to Israel.