There’s oil in them hills….extra virgin olive oil

How often do you head for the hills and say that you’re not going home? Idyllic vacations may lead to such fantasies, but not many of us actually pack up our bags and start a new life elsewhere. Still, that’s exactly what Avner Talmon decided to do while horseback  riding in the Galilee a decade ago.

Talmon traded in running a plastics company in Tel Aviv to grow olives and produce olive oil in the Golan. Together with his wife, Smadar, the Israel Defence Forces reservist, who was a colonel and ex-paratrooper, runs the company Golan Olive Oil and Visitors Center in Katzrin, right across the road from the Golan Heights Winery.

Because of Avner Talmon’s love and deep respect for the countryside, his desire to use environmentally friendly production methods became the foundation for the design of the facility. Preserving the ancient, lush, fertile lands is paramount to him. He points out that the olives are grown in the same general area where Jewish warriors defended the land against the Romans.

Eleven different varieties of olives are used to make three different types of extra virgin olive oil – the only kind of oil the Talmons produce. The types vary according to colour, taste and fruitiness. For example, the Tabha line offers a more delicate and lighter-tasting oil, while the Beith Saida is fruitier with a more pronounced aroma.

Extra virgin olive oil – a term that is regulated by the International Olive Oil Council – is unrefined and contains the lowest level of acidity along with a host of phytochemicals, disease-fighting compounds from plant foods. For the oil to be classified as extra virgin, only top quality olives that yield a pleasing aroma, taste and colour can be used.

While the Golan operation is situated in the same place as ancient olive mills were located 3,000 years ago, the equipment used now is state-of-the art. Not only is it superior in producing top quality oil but for Talmon, the issue of sanitation is also critical. To him, the old technology of crushing and extracting using stone press is no longer acceptable to the modern, inspected markets.

What is unique about Golan Olive Oil is that the oil production yields no waste. Instead, the residual olive matter is turned into cosmetic products. The company’s labs have developed the Olea Essence series: a collection of natural ingredient cosmetic products containing no preservatives, artificial colours or perfumes. Moisturizers, night cream, eye cream, hand and body lotion are just a few of the offerings.

You can try them out while at the visitors’ centre. But there’s much more to the site than soothing your skin. Talmon, whose undergraduate degree is in archeology, had the building designed with the ancient architecture of the region in mind. Guided tours are conducted and include explanations about olive oil production, from the earliest tools used to the company’s modern machinery. A short fun film about Golan Olive Oil is part of the tour. And of course, tasting the olive oils is included, and it’s a wonderful way to end the tour. But if you like, you can head to Cafe Olea for some light eats or to the shop for some olive oil or cosmetics.

For more information, contact Golan Olive Oil at P.O. Box 3619, Kazrin 12900 Israel. Phone: 972 4 6850023; e-mail:[email protected]

Here’s a flavourful salad from Israel from my book, The Enlightened Eater’s Whole Foods Guide (Viking Canada). You can also serve it as a bed for grilled fish. Za’atar, a blend of dried hyssop, sumac and sesame seeds, is available at Middle Eastern grocers – together with a good quality olive oil, it’s a wonderful topping for flatbreads and pitas.

Nutty Fattouch Salad

3 cups coarsely chopped fresh assorted herbs (parsley, chives, cilantro, dill, mint)
1 large tomato, diced
1 red pepper, diced
2 tbsp. coarsely chopped assorted nuts, toasted (walnuts, pecans, pine nuts, etc.)
1 tbsp. za’atar
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 or 3 small pitas, toasted, cooled and broken into large pieces

In a large bowl, toss together chopped herbs, tomato, red pepper, nuts and za’atar; drizzle on oil and lemon juice and toss. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place a pita on each plate and ladle  salad mixture over the pitas. Alternatively, the pitas can be broken up and tossed in with the vegetables and herbs. Serves 4.

Rosie Schwartz is a Toronto-based consulting dietitian in private practice and a cookbook author.